Review: New York Fashion Week

By Veronica Saroli
Contributing Writer

Though we’re busy embracing our fall wardrobes here in Kingston, spring fashion is on the minds of those attending New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Typically characterized as younger and edgier than Paris, Milan or London Fashion Week, the designers at NYFW didn’t disappoint this year. Graphic stripes and patterns, monochromatic colour schemes of black and white were the norm and evident of what all the kids will be wearing come April.

A few standout shows:

Jason Wu
Every season I look forward to what the beauty team comes up with at Jason Wu. For example, Spring/Summer 2012 featured birds’ nest inspired hair that was delicate yet tough at the same time. This time around, Diane Kendal worked with MAC products to create a bold lip that rivals no other.

Helmut Newton, who’s known of his use of bold and ‘dangerous’ lips inspired the collection. Two lipsticks and lip liners were used to create depth and rich color. Neon powder was then dusted on top, creating a gradient effect. Try mimicking the look with your own favourite shade of red.

3.1 Philip Lim
The menswear inspired shoes paired with short fishnet socks was a highlight at 3.1 Phillip Lim. American Apparel has fishnet socks that you can purchase in Kingston to recreate the look!

Calvin Klein

This season was inspired by artist Carsten Nicolai’s “Moiré Index.”, a book that explores the moiré effect—a phenomenon that can be created by the overlay of lines. The result was a sleek and cool collection of black and white moiré silk, duchess satin, mesh and silk gazar items. The collection showed a cool visage with an erotic undertone;, presenting layered bustiers and dresses, peplum shapes and defined waist layered with the different materials. This collection will likely be a big inspiration for high-street labels like H&M and Zara, who can recreate designer looks to produce wearable pieces.

Conical bustiers, peplums and transparent fabric at Calvin Klein.

A dress with a moiré pattern.

Marc Jacobs
Every season Marc Jacob’s runway creations immediately inspire everyday wear. In this case, it’s his use of vertical stripes, thick swerving lined dresses, jackets and skirts sitting low at the hips. Marc Jacobs was successfully able to cite an era that can easily look dated and gimmicky, with a look very reminiscent of 1960s Edie Sedgwick. He’s able to make the look more modern by adding a lower waistline.

Models looked effortlessly cool at the Marc Jacobs show, sporting, mod eyes, dramatic sweeping bangs and tightly stitched sequined dresses. Unlike some shows, Marc Jacobs’ models don’t just act as mannequins; he uses them to help convey a lifestyle. You can easily incorporate this style into your everyday looks by playing with waistlines, patterns and mod-makeup.

Two graphic looks from Marc Jacobs showing tightly stitched sequined dresses and low a slung skirt.

Proenza Schouler
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez cited Tumblr as their inspiration, mimicking the collage-like layout of a Tumblr page.

This collection played with contrasting mechanic and organic elements; laser cut skins of all varieties (eel, python, leather) adorned with serious hardware such as grommets, with the seams being hand crocheted in Madagascar. Contrary to the monochrome trend seen at the Calvin Klein and Marc Jacob shows, Proenza Schouler presents urban cool pieces that incorporate color-blocking and mixing patterns.
With that type of creativity, Jack and Lazaro continuously present a show full of colors and patterns that shouldn’t be missed.

Print and color blocking at Proenza Schouler.

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